We raise pedigreed English Angora rabbits.
We are in Dunlap, Illinois
Our rabbitry is currently a closed rabbitry. Meaning, we do not allow anyone inside of our building. We allow visitors and will show up to 3- 4 bunnies at once upon availability. However, we provide photos of all our breeding stock on Our Herd page.
Nutrena NatureWise 18%
No, we have always used water from our kitchen sink. Sometimes it was city water and currently it is well water that is filtered through a water softener/conditioner.
There are lots of different styles of cages and hutches that you can find in stores and online. We have both store bought and homemade cages that we designed and built. The most important thing about your cage is going to be the size and flooring. Angoras have so much hair that they need grow out room. It's not really fair to keep them in a 24 x 24 inch cage regardless of age or wool length.
We recommend you purchase as big of a hutch as you can get. I like 30 - 36 inches long for a cage but have seen them up to 40” long which is great! Some cages are only 17 - 19 inches deep but try to not get anything less than that if you can at least get the much longer width. We prefer our rabbits to have one direction longer for hopping and more space for movement. Cages or hutches should have wire bottoms for hygiene purposes unless they are litter trained. For more info on cages, go to our Barn page to see our past rabbitry set ups and recommendations in our Bun Shop.
We are currently designing and building new custom cages for our new Bunny Barn and will post photos when this very long and time consuming project is finished.
We use BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds), old fashioned oats, and Calf Manna. More info and pictures are posted on our Prepare for your new bunny page of this website and where to purchase them in our Bun Shop. In the warmer months, we do not give as much BOSS as it can make them hot or gain too much weight. Be very careful not to over do it!
No, we recommend that you use a good rabbit pellet that is made for rabbits and introduce vegetables slowly, one at a time. Wait until the bunny is 6 months old for an intro to veggies (one kind at a time).
There are different answers to this question. We say yes to this question because it does two things for the rabbit. First, it is something they like to eat and chew on (out of boredom). It works great for keeping the teeth gnawed down so you don't have to have their teeth trimmed. Rabbits' teeth never stop growing.
Then, eating hay for rabbits keeps the gut moving and they have a healthier digestive system. If a rabbit doesn't eat, they will have gas build up in their stomach which can lead to bloat. Rabbits cannot burp or vomit so this is a very painful death for them!
It has been proven that hay is not a necessity for a rabbit to have at all times like some think. We have tested this theory as well. I have found that hay is extremely messy and wanted to see if it would make a difference if I didn’t hay rabbits of all ages. I saw no difference in behavior. However, I do feel it is a good idea to feed hay. I believe it is very good for keeping the digestive system moving, wool block prevention, and a stress reliever for young bunnies when moved to their new homes. Hay alone, however, is not a sufficient diet for any rabbit ever.
The answer is none. Pine chips, shredded paper or anything similar to these will just get stuck in the rabbits coat/wool. This will make a terrible mess and do nothing but stress both you and your new bunny out.
Over grooming a rabbit when you first get it can be deadly. If you feel you need something for your bunny to sit on, use a piece of fleece or just a pile of hay. In the winter months, some use straw in outdoor hutches.
Please check any type of bedding daily in case it is soiled and needs to be replaced. Soiled bedding can cause urine scald or nasty wool on your bunny. If you want something besides wire for your bunny to sit on, please view our Bun Shop page and check out the resting mats we use!
We recommend Timothy hay like everyone usually suggests. However, we use hay from local farmers and it is a mixture of grass hay. Orchard hay is another good hay that rabbits can eat as well. Please avoid alfalfa hay with any rabbit over 6 months of age.
Please begin with visiting our How to Adopt page. We typically have babies or buns in the oven at all times.
If you are not local or close enough to make the drive to Dunlap, IL, we do work with ground transporters. Please visit our delivery & transport page for more info.
Yes, all of our rabbits are papered. Meaning they have pedigrees and unless we state otherwise (before purchase), you will be given a pedigree for your rabbit that you purchase from us. Each bunny, therefore; will receive a pedigree via email from us that was generated through Global Pedigree systems at no additional charge. If you are interested in something more personal, check out our custom designed and personalized pedigree with photos, please read about our CBB Custom Pedigrees and Birth Certificates that we offer as well!
Yes we normally breed for this option as well.
If we do not have one available, we do keep a paid waiting list. You will get pick of the litter!
If picking up from us or a transporter, you need to bring something for the bunny to travel home in. Rabbit transport cages or pet taxi’s work perfectly. If you are picking up your bunny at our home, we have carriers for sale. If you cannot or do not want to bring a carrier with you, we offer a travel bag for sale for bunnies to ride home in. If you bring a carrier without a wire grated bottom, be sure to have an absorbent material on the bottom to soak up urine. Our travel bags that we sell do come with absorbent material for the ride home.
Yes but it is much more expensive than using ground transportation and we have not used this option to date. We can ship via air if there are no embargoes to your location. There are a lot of extra fees involved with shipping through the airlines. They must travel in an airline approved transport carrier that is yours to keep, Other fees include the actual airline ticket that is somewhat in the ballpark of $380 - $500 for domestic flights. We charge extra for the carrier and the cost of getting that carrier shipped to us as well as gas and time for going to the airport. As you can see, the cost outweighs the price of a bunny very quickly and this is why we do not recommend this transport option to most. There are health papers required by the airline that need to be administered from a state licensed veterinarian after an examination prior to departure. These fees vary from veterinarian offices. Our vet charges approximately $40 currently for this health certificate. This is not including an office visit if they want to charge that fee as well.
We have many colors and patterns of English Angoras here at CBB. We do not have them available at all times. We have color programs that separate certain colors from breeding to certain colors. If you want to see all of the colors we have to offer, please look at our our heard page. We even offer the highly desired colors (and patterns) that are not showable as well. These make great fiber, therapy, and/or pet bunnies!
Yes, all of our rules and policies are posted on our Bunny Purchase Policy page.
We have many color programs in our EA rabbitry. If you do not see the color you want, contact us and let us know what you are looking for. You may also want to check out our planned breeding program about choosing parent bunnies for breeding!
Yes, we finally have a very detailed and educational page for identifying English Angora rabbit colors. It is full of descriptions, identifying information, genetics, and everything you need to learn about English Angora colors and genetics. We also have a very friendly Facebook group specifically for getting free help in identifying colors in EA. Please join English Angora Rabbit Colors and Bunnies and feel free to post about your bunnies! This group is drama free and kid friendly!
My first thought is to say two females but I am hesitant because females can be a bit hormonal and may disappoint. Bucks are always better pets but two bucks together will not get along most of the time. So to answer this question most accurately, I suggest spaying or neutering (altering) both rabbits and then not having the worry of them getting along. Two bunnies of either gender or both the same gender will bond well if they are desexed. I recommend altering as quickly and as young as your vet will do the surgery. The only time you do not want to alter them is during their transition period from bringing them home. This would be too stressful on them.
If it is a molting angora, it will only grow 3-6 inches before it starts shedding. If it is not prone to molting and the owner takes care of the coat (grooming, blowing out, limited brushing), the coat can grow to great lengths.
Right now the longest English Angora rabbit coat is recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records of 14.37 inches (owner Betty Chu) in 2014.
You can do lots of things if you want to harvest (remove and store/save) the fiber. Spin the fiber into yarn or use for felting. You can do lots with yarn or make lots of things with felt! I advise you to look up different types of fiber art!
No, the German Angora (not recognized by the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club aka NARBC) also has facial furnishings but is much larger in size when fully grown. The German Angora is recognized by the International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders (IAGARB). The Giant, French and Satin do not have facial furnishings or tassels on the ears. The last three Angora breeds, along with English, are all recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA).
Wool block is when a rabbit over-grooms itself and/or ingests too much of its wool (fur, hair, fiber). It will clog up the digestive system and not pass. This is fatal if not addressed quickly and still may be fatal with medical intervention.
We try to keep our angora rabbits trimmed down if we suspect that they are ingesting too much wool. We also give papaya pills or pineapple chunks to our rabbits as a treat because it is known to help pass wool and the bunnies love the taste of them. They consider them a treat! We watch daily for signs of wool block. Normally our rabbits in full coat will start to go off feed when they are ingesting too much wool. The simple fix to this problem is to harvest the wool and they always show immediate results and are very happy! We have seen a complete turn around in less than 24 hours with them back to eating normal.
Pineapple chunks are something bunnies love as a fresh treat that can help pass wool if blocked in the digestive tract. Some even put pineapple juice in the water to help. This is not something we have had any experience with but want to mention it in case it helps someone else. We have only ever given pineapple as a treat.
Unlimited hay keeps the bunnies eating and the digestive system moving also. If you notice your EA is eating its wool, will not eat its pellets or hay, remove the wool immediately. If this does not work, seek medical attention immediately.
No, it is no different than a human getting a haircut. Most of our rabbits enjoy being groomed. We use clippers, scissors and pluck (only if a molting rabbit) if ready. They don't mind any of the methods we use.
Our angora coats grow at a rate of about an inch or more a month. We keep to a very strict schedule. They get blown out 1-3 times a week (as long as it fits into our schedule) and they have a hair cut/shave down every 3 months. If we are growing out any rabbit, they do not get a haircut until we are finished growing out for whatever purpose (full harvest of wool or for showing) needed. We do harvest our fiber to sell as well.
Bunnies born and raised here usually do not get their first hair cut until a minimum of 6 months old. If showing, it happens when it is retired from showing.
There are more fibers growing out than guard hairs on an English Angora rabbit. The fine strands of fiber will tangle easily and that is why we suggest you use a forced air dryer/blower for your bunny coat to keep all the dander, dust, and tangles out. Use a comb to check the hair behind the ears and on the face first as this is the area to become tangled first on most rabbits.
If your rabbit scratches often, it will tangle and mat its hair very quickly. Check for signs of fur mites and treat accordingly. The underside of the bunny can tangle and felt quickly as well. It is best to keep the under coat shorter or do a sanitary trim to help keep it clean.
No, please do not bathe your angora rabbit. First, you might literally give it a heart attack. Second, you will never get the coat back to normal. The wool is liable to felt and mat up into a mess that could take days to manage. Rabbits are not patient and will stress when over groomed in a way they are not used to. Water and friction equal felting!
We check the nails on our herd weekly. Most of our rabbits get their nails clipped once or twice a month at most.
Yes, we finally have a very detailed and educational page for identifying English Angora rabbit colors. It is full of descriptions, identifying information, genetics, and everything you need to learn about English Angora colors and genetics. We also have a very friendly Facebook group specifically for getting free help in identifying colors in EA. Please join English Angora Rabbit Colors and Bunnies and feel free to post about your bunnies! This group is drama free and kid friendly!
My first thought is to say two females but I am hesitant because females can be a bit hormonal and may disappoint. Bucks are always better pets but two bucks together will not get along most of the time. So to answer this question most accurately, I suggest spaying or neutering (altering) both rabbits and then not having the worry of them getting along. Two bunnies of either gender or both the same gender will bond well if they are desexed. I recommend altering as quickly and as young as your vet will do the surgery. The only time you do not want to alter them is during their transition period from bringing them home. This would be too stressful on them.
Yes, very much so! They are very gentle and people friendly. They make great pets and therapy buddies! The only downfall is the high maintenance coats or there would probably be more people that wanted to own them.
The Angora is said to have originated in Ankara (historically known as Angora), in present-day Turkey, and is known to have been brought to France in 1723. The Angora rabbit became a popular pet of the French royalty in the mid-18th century, and Angoras spread to other parts of Europe by the end of that century.
English Angoras are the smallest of all angora breeds. They grow to 5-7 1/2 pounds typically. Their wool makes them appear larger when grown out longer.
An old bunny will get along with a new bunny just fine if slowly introduced, given the time to acclimate and understand it is just sharing the home. This must be done slowly with supervision. Begin by caging them next to each other and supervising time spent together until you are certain one will not harm the other.
No, rabbits do not require friends. They do not mind being the sole pet in a household. In fact, bunnies can buddy up with a cat or dog just as easily as another bunny. It is not necessary to have an animal buddy for your bunny unless you desire to own two.
Pineapple chunks are something bunnies love as a fresh treat that can help pass wool if blocked in the digestive tract. Some even put pineapple juice in the water to help. This is not something we have had any experience with but want to mention it in case it helps someone else. We have only ever given pineapple as a treat.
Unlimited hay keeps the bunnies eating and the digestive system moving also. If you notice your EA is eating its wool, will not eat its pellets or hay, remove the wool immediately. If this does not work, seek medical attention immediately.
Just because bucks make good pets does not mean does do not. The only negative with a female pet bunny is that they can get grouchy when they hit puberty. They tend to get feisty when they want to breed. They will even pull their fur and build a nest as if they are pregnant. As always, it. Is best to spay and neuter a pet bunny and then you do not have to question which gender will make the best pet.
Rabbits can live up to 12 years or longer if given the best life. Factors that play into how long a rabbit lives would be if the bunny is spayed or neutered. Altering a rabbit will reduce the possibilities of cancer in the reproductive organs. Keeping a bunny indoors, out of the inclement weather also will increase longevity of life. The more comfortable, the better the diet, and the happier the bunny is, the healthier it will be.
Our rabbits see our veterinarians on a need to basis only. Our veterinarians work with us on medical needs as necessary but rabbits do not require vaccinations, therefore; they do not have a need for regular check ups unless completely necessary.
Please know that not all veterinarians are rabbit savvy. We have lived in places where the vet would NOT see our rabbits and that makes life difficult. However, we have also witnessed veterinarians misdiagnose or misinform people about problems in rabbits that we know to be wrong. Please do your research and double check veterinarian advice if you question it.
Remember, doctors are human and rabbits are mysterious creatures. They do not teach heavy rabbit education in vet school. Also, rabbits are pretty easy to replace for much less money so a lot of the time, vets do not have a demand for knowledge on rabbits.
We recommend finding a licensed Exotic Veterinarian Specialist for any serious bunny needs outside of spaying and neutering. These are the only veterinarians educated in the care of rabbits.
Not necessarily. We do not give any rabbit vaccinations other than the BunnyVac shot. You can read about what it is and why we give it on the page about BunnyVac. The only other vaccination (RHDV: rabbit hemorrhagic disease virus) for rabbits is not sold in the state of IL at this time. It is sold in Europe but only available in the United States in states where there have been known cases found.
I am not a veterinarian, therefore; I cannot state the appropriate age for spaying or neutering a bunny. However, I do recommend having this procedure done as quickly as your vet advises. To remove unnecessary hormonal behavior and marking is best kept under control from early spaying and neutering. I advise NOT to have any medical procedures done the first couple of weeks of owning your new bunny or they will not be acclimated and could stress which leads to death in some cases.
A lot of people panic the first time they see red rabbit urine. Some rabbits do have many different shades of urine and they can all be normal. If your bunny eats, drinks, potties like it should and the urine is the same color at all times, that is the normal color for that bunny. Rabbit urine can be a cloudy yellow to orange and in some cases look like a blood tinged orange color. All of these colors are perfectly normal. I has a lot to do with the bunnies diet. Now, if your bunny is urinating a cloudy yellow for two years and suddenly it changes to a blood orangey color, this warrants a trip to the exotic vet for a check up if no dietary changes have taken place.
Again, they do not require vaccinations. They can be vaccinated with the BunnyVac to help prevent outbreaks of Pasteurella. They can get a RHVD vaccination only in states that have had an outbreak of the rabbit hemorrhage disease. Neither are required shots.
You will likely need to treat fur or ear mites periodically and this treatment will also cover internal worms (excluding tapeworm).
If you live in an area where fleas are prevalent, you will want to administer a monthly flea treatment and watch for tapeworm as fleas are the host for tapeworm. It is best to get these medications from a licensed vet if you are not a breeder well versed in medications for rabbits.
Other than desexing/altering your bunny which is neutering bucks and spaying does, the need for regular check ups are unnecessary.
Most of our does kindle at 30 or 31 days. We have had them go sooner and if more than two days early, the kits do not usually survive. We have seen kits born with hair on them when they were a few days overdue as well!
They need to be full grown in order to breed them. This is usually by 6 months of age. The youngest doe we ever had kindle was 5 1/2 months old from an accidental breeding.
A fall-off is when a buck connects with the doe in a successful mating. He generally humps the female until he is finished, and then literally falls off the doe. There are some bucks that are very vocal and more theatrical than others! We have seen some successful litters happen with no visible "fall-off" but we look for the fall-off to occur within a couple of minutes of putting the pair together for breeding. We have a video showing a fall off on our Breeding English Angora Rabbits page.
Learn all about how to breed rabbits on our Breeding English Angora Rabbits page. Here you will find lots of info, photos, videos and details on breeding English Angora rabbits.
The wool that momma rabbit pulls when building her nest is sometimes too long. Anything longer than an inch can felt together and cause fatal problems for the young. If the fiber strands are too long, they can and will wrap around body parts of the newborn kits. Wrapped around the neck is very common but we have seen it wrapped around limbs as well. Check for this multiple times in the first week and multiple times daily the first few days.
We have had litters of just one kit (aka, Singleton and we have had litters of up to 13 kits. For our rabbitry, the average litter size is about 8 kits.
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